Showing posts with label saw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label saw. Show all posts
Monday, February 10, 2014
My New Rock And Roll Saw
My next major project is a new combo tool cabinet come bench. I have everything for it worked out on paper so I am now in "collection" mode; finding the materials and specialty tools needed to get the thing built.
I posted about this design back in June of last year and Im mentioning this now because the design is in the Campaign style and I wanted you all to know that I was working with this style long before Chris Schwarz started his campaign build.
The design calls for drawers and lots of them, all installed in multiple carcass cases that will make up two storage units each made up from stacking three carcass cases on top of each other. The bottom case for each will be 11" high, one for a saw till and the other for other high items, and the remaining two cases in each will be 7" high each with its own unique number of drawers. With them stacked on the base stand and the bench top placed across them, Ill end up with a bench at proper height. The reason for this type of design is its versatility. I can stack them as explained for a workbench, or I can do away with one of the bases and stack them all together on one base. The design will also allow me to change the stacking order to best suit my work habits, or to suit my mood, whichever the case may be.
As each pair of drawers in the individual cases will require a divider, and I cant think of a better joint to use for them than a sliding dovetail. I love this joint as it is strong and seeing a dovetail on the end of a wide piece is just downright cool. I made them all the time when I worked with a table saw, but not so much now that Im a tool pusher. They are both complicated and a hell of a lot of work to make by hand. The blind variety are also a royal pain in the butt to make. With that in mind, I have been working with Matt Cianci over on The Saw Blog on coming up with a new saw design, one specifically designed for cutting the two sides of all the blind sliding dovetails this project calls for.
One of the biggest problems with cutting a blind sliding dovetail across a carcass wall is that the toe of the saw always digs in and makes a royal mess of things. Doing some experimenting, I came up with the idea that if the saws plate was arched, the digging in problem could be overcome. By giving an 11" long plate a 58" radius, it ends up arching up ¼-inch front and rear. Using the centre section to cut across the wider width of a carcass, the toe will not be able to bury itself during the cut. If the cut is blind, tilting down the heel of the saw as you go deeper will keep it from nose-diving and when the majority of the cut is done in this manner, you can tilt the heel up and use the toe to finish it off blind.
As the two cuts need to be equal in depth, I figured a depth gauge would be just the ticket so I came up with a design for a curved one to match the curvature of the blades arch. I then took a page from the old filletster planes and came up with an adjustable setup. I think the design will allow me to cut pretty accurate depths whether cutting across the board, or tilted up while cutting the blind with the toe. I designed the gauge to also work as a fence, planning to have it run up against the cleat instead of the blade. I just think this will be easier to work as there will be some distance between my hand and the cleat, keeping the skin on my knuckles in the process, not to mention saving the saws set for another day.
Matt was a lot of help to me coming up with the handles "hang", or angle of attack. At first I had it set to 34º, but Matt suggested it would be too difficult to work and suggested I bring it down to 24º, which is still higher than a normal handle hang. We did agree on the placement, though, as bringing it forward so the grip is over the heel of the saw will help to keep it against the cleat.
Wanting the thing to look good as well, I decided on making the body out of zebra wood and the handle and horn out of ebony. I think these two woods work well together with their strong contrast in tones.
The result of all of this is that Matt is now looking for an old piece of .028" plate stock and Im sourcing out a place to buy a hunk of ebony that wont cost me more than what I paid for my last new car.
The project should be fun to put together, but with a total cost probably in the $250 to $300 range, I sure hope the damned thing works.
Peace,
Mitchell
Sunday, January 26, 2014
Traditional Saw Bench
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A trip to the local timber yard over the weekend led me to find a cheap budget range of timber. Four 3m lengths of 2"x2" (50mm x 50mm) B grade Pine at a little over £1 per meter. I had to cut each 3m piece into 1m + 2m to fit it in the car.
While the timber is less than straight and quite knotty, its (hopefully) perfect for me to build my long awaited saw bench. I have been wanting a decent saw bench for ages to cut stock to rough length outside using my panel saws. It will also serve to chop mortises on while sitting down and as a workshop stool.
While the timber is less than straight and quite knotty, its (hopefully) perfect for me to build my long awaited saw bench. I have been wanting a decent saw bench for ages to cut stock to rough length outside using my panel saws. It will also serve to chop mortises on while sitting down and as a workshop stool.
Some online research led me to the following sources of information: here, here and here .
I figured I would follow the same basic traditional design using slightly different joints and measurements with the entire thing made from 2"x2" timber. The whole project is basically an exercise in precision sawing practice, thank god for my new tenon saw.
While the saw bench is a tool, I wanted to approach it almost as if it were a piece of furniture to improve my overall skills. Generally people talk about knocking together a quick saw bench but this project took me a few days mostly because I was taking my time to do things right. I can see why nearly all hand tool woodworkers end up building their own Roubo style work benches, this saw bench is like an insight to what might be involved on a (much) smaller scale.
While the saw bench is a tool, I wanted to approach it almost as if it were a piece of furniture to improve my overall skills. Generally people talk about knocking together a quick saw bench but this project took me a few days mostly because I was taking my time to do things right. I can see why nearly all hand tool woodworkers end up building their own Roubo style work benches, this saw bench is like an insight to what might be involved on a (much) smaller scale.
Edge jointing the four 1m lengths to make the top - lots of squeeze out. Im using PVA glue (again) as its likely the saw bench will see some use outdoors.
The next day, after the glue had dried I found a short crack in one of the pieces probably caused by the wood moving in its new climate and being glued, I guess something had to give. I cut and squared off the end back to good wood leaving just over 30" - plenty long enough.
The cut off waste piece showing the crack that developed after gluing up the top. I should have waited a week or so to let the wood become acclimatised with it now coming inside a heated house from outdoors at the wood yard.
Flattening the saw bench top using my no#6 and no#4 bench planes, across the grain, diagonals and lastly with the grain. I will do a final smoothing once the bench is assembled.
After cutting four 22" long pieces for the legs, I set my bevel gauge to 100 degrees to give the legs a 10 degree angle and marked out the joinery where the saw bench top will sit.
Placing the piece in the vice at an angle so that the saw stays plumb while sawing the angled cut. The piece of wood in the vice to the left is to stop the vice racking. Remember to save the waste pieces for the bench top glue up.
Using my new 1.5" chisel and shoulder plane to clean up the angled shoulder joints.
The saw bench top joinery for the legs.
First dry fit of the legs - its starting to look vaguely like a saw bench. Later I will need to plane down the saw bench top to allow the legs to sit flush. I should have cut longer (deeper) joints in the legs. I am kinda making up the measurements as I go along - doh!
Marking out a recess in the legs to accept a lap jointed stretcher.
The sides of the recess are sawn and the waste chiselled out. Those new chisels I rescued last week are already earning their place in the toolbox.
Glueing the leg stretchers, the saw bench top is used to ensure the leg assembly remains square. I had also earlier cut the ripping notch. Unfortunately, this difficult cut was longer than the 4" deep blade of my large tenon saw so I had to resort to my pullsaw for the final inch or so.
Flush cutting the stretcher and leg lap joints.
Using a block plane and sand paper to break all the corners and remove all the glue and pencil marks.
Using the waste pieces from the leg shoulders to aid the clamping process for gluing up the saw bench top to the angled legs.
One clamp for each pair of legs and a large heavy butchers block for some extra weight and left overnight to cure.
At this stage my plan to build the saw bench entirely from 2"x2" timber changed. I had a 5 1/2" piece of Pine absolutely perfect for the upper leg braces. Oh well best laid plans and all... Marking out the leg angles.
Despite this being a crosscut, I found it easier, faster and more precise using my large Tenon saw, I guess the 5 1/2" board is slightly too wide for the 11" blade of the carcass saw.
Using bench planes to remove cupping from the upper leg braces. I only bothered with the side that mates against the legs.
Laying out the screw holes. Six scres per brace, three holes per side. Half the leg thickness (1") from the top and bottom and in from the side. The third hole is exactly between the top and bottom ones found using deviders ... a lot of effort but first bite is with the eye.
Using my brace to very carefully and slowly drill the counter sink holes for the screw heads followed by the pilot holes with my hand drill.
A smidgen of glue to make it bomb proof!
Leg braces glued and screwed - yet more squeeze out to clean off.
Screw holes plugged using small lengths of dowel.
A final light sand to remove excess glue and a coat of boiled Linseed oil - Done!
Ripping notch - I love the grain pattern.
Leg stretcher joint
Plugged upper leg brace
Saw bench trimmed to height using my knee as a gauge with 10 Degree angle on the leg bases so each leg sits flat.
At this stage the saw bench is basically complete and functional. I might later put screws in the saw bench top joints and also in the stretchers, but Im hoping the glue joints will be strong enough. Also a 3/4" hole for a holdfast might come later.
I have to say despite the time involved, considering a saw bench should be a simple project, I really enjoyed making it and once again learnt a hell of a lot. Especially as a lot of the mark up and cuts were not at the standard 90 degrees. This project felt like real old school traditional wood working, almost a right of passage!
When I first started this blog only a short while ago I decided to buy a beginner bench as I didnt think I would be able to build my own. This saw bench build has certainly got me thinking ... and with my increasing skill level ... who knows my very own Roubo workbench may not be that far away....
Friday, January 17, 2014
Today What is the best table saw for woodworking
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