Wood Working project plan

Sheds are considered as simple yet sturdy structures found outside of the house, usually situated in the backyard or garage. The importance of a shed in every home is strengthened by the need for a storage space where tools, house repair items, spare parts, and house supplies can easily be accessed and organized. Today, wide arrays of sheds are available in the market that relatively responds to our specific storage need. May our need for shed be for our animals, hobbies, or just a storage space, there will surely be a specific-use shed available for us to install.

Contrary to everyone’s belief, installing a shed is not as uncomplicated as it seems to be. The first thing to do is to identify your need. By doing so, you must be able to determine your purpose of having a shed. Having a clear approach on this will help you in choosing the right type of shed. If you are not decided yet on this though, you can consider first the most generic items that a shed should contain and from there, have a shed-type selected for it.

Now that you have decided on the type of shed, you can easily follow these hassle free steps in installing your new storage space:

1. Check your local building code for the allowed shed size. By doing so, you will be properly guided with your community’s policies on shed building, keeping you and your housemates safe from any danger that might be brought about by misconstruction.

2. Next thing to do is to buy all the building materials and prepare the necessary tools in the installation. While preparing, segregate already the materials according to its specific use and function. For example, separate the materials to be used as the base and foundation from the items you will use for attachment (bolts and nuts, screws, nails, adhesives, and the like). Your working tools may also include gloves and working shoes, or a mask if some soldering will be done. Don’t forget also to prepare your shed installing plan that includes your working diagrams, guidelines, measurements, and the like. Some shed making kits already come with instructions or how-to-build diagrams, so better have them on hand.

3. Keep in mind the place where your shed will be installed. Check the level of the ground for cracks, imbalance, or other deformation. The shed should also be situated in a space free from possible obstructions like tree branches, communication lines, and the like. The main purpose of this is that the shed is still categorized as a solid structure, thus, must be constructed with safety in mind.

4. Create your shed by following the instructions in your prepared guideline or work plan. Remember to work your way from the bottom or foundation, next to the walls, then to the roof, and finally to the finishing touches. Ensure as well that all appendages are properly installed and tightened for these also contribute to the strength of the structure.


Your shed is now done and ready for storage and organizing. See, it’s really that easy.

If you want to get more tips like this, then you should get a copy of the "IDEA WOOD WORKING PLANS". It is a great a comprehensive guide which will teach you every thing you need to know about wood working!

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Having returned from Fine Woodworking Live 2013 last night, Im filled with enthusiasm to jump into the shop and build away. I also have tons of photos and other info about the event to share.

Assembling the Cut List...

Working off of my sketches and existing examples of trusted, work bench construction methods, I come up with a plan and begin adding up the numbers. This is generally how I approach a new design, from the sketch I mock up some shapes and sizes using off cuts and batons around my shop to see if in the real world things still look like they do on paper. I settle on the overall size and start down my cut list taking into account the joinery.

The top work surface is where I begin and the two panels of 1" thick, quarter-sawn white Oak are cross cut to length leaving about 1/4" extra for love. The oak used is offcuts from a past project and has been in my shop for over 7 months now, so I know its extremely stable and will make a great work surface and apron. When I originally purchased the wood it was dimensioned before it left the mill so I can surface it all pretty quickly. From jointing plane to smoother Ill get the top glued up before I even begin thinking about the apron.
This being a work shop project Im really trying to keep the budget at a minimum so the bench top and apron are made from off cuts as mentioned with the lower frame made from Ipe. Its an extremely dense exotic I noticed at my local hardware store. They sell it these days as a high-end decking material. This particular stock was already finished at 1 1/2" square and came in 12 lengths. At $15.00 a length I couldnt go wrong. It does come with its edges all beveled but this being a work bench I can live with it. Id prefer to have square stock to begin but I can deal with the off the shelf lumber for the sake of the budget. Now 1 1/2" stock may sound a little undersized for a workbench frame but keep in mind the scale of the piece and the fact that this Ipe is like iron!

Jointing the Edge

With the oak cross cut to length Ill go ahead and joint it. To begin, I clearly mark the planks for grain direction and lay them on my bench top, reference faces up. I decide what two edges Ill be jointing together. I mark the orientation of them with a builders triangle on the face surface and fold them back together keeping the inside edges up. This book matched pair will be clamped together in my face vise and jointed simultaneously. I use a bevel-up jointing plane with a nice wide iron at 2 1/4" and work the edges together. Ill take a series of through shavings checking for square as I go. I finish off the process with a couple of stop shavings to insure no bumps along the edges. Again I check my work with a reliable straight edge and finally, a light pass again planing through, end to end. The nice thing about edge jointing two boards together like this is if youre edges are slightly out of square it really doesnt matter; because of the book matching we did when we clamped them, once unfolded any inconsistencies will cancel each other out. That said, while youre planing, try your best to keep things square! (maybe this is one of those rare occasions you can get in some practice time while actually working on a project and not just something from the scrap wood pile?)

The Glue Dance

With the edges jointed Ill glue up the panels and set them aside for the night. Heres my method for gluing two panels together.
To begin, I set my clamp opening to an 1" wider than the actual piece and lay them down across my bench top. These pieces are just under 3 long so Ill be using 5 clamps, three will go on the bottom and two more across the top.Lay the two planks across the three bottom clamps and a quick dry run will show how things should hopefully go. These two are sitting really nicely together and the joint almost closes itself! Its a good day when that happens...
Because of the stopped shavings I took earlier, when gentle pressure is applied using only the middle clamp, Im confident the outside edges of the joint will be tight.
So a generous amount of glue is spread and I begin again at the middle clamp bringing the pieces together. I use down ward thumb pressure across the joint to keep the seam flat and wont over tighten this first clamp yet- Ill come back to it in a minute. With the middle of the stock held firmly together, Ill use a couple of F style clamps placed on the outside edges and draw the seam down flush along its length. Then working out from the center again I start tightening things up. I stagger the pressure as I go, from left to right and then left outside and finally the right outside clamp. With the five clamps secure Ill move back across and re tighten them all down to finish. Take a step back and have a look- double check your grain is running in the proper direction and your building triangle is mated happily back together. This will be your last chance to change anything!
Go make a coffee and check your email, come back in an hour and begin cleaning up the glue. Ill work between the clamps and remove any squeeze out after it has started to cure but before its too hard to easily scrap away. This is also when Ill usually remove the two outside F clamps; if I leave them on overnight Ill have some deep bruises to deal with tomorrow.






















"Top of the morning to ya!" The glue set up overnight so I remove the clamps and get ready to work. A card scraper down the seam removes any final bits of glue- Im careful not to tear away any wood with it. Im happy with the results- this oak is stable and sits well on my bench top-another good sign! Ill double check with my winding sticks and a metal straight edge taking note of any high spots or twist across the surface.
















A few light passes with the jointer followed with a smoothing plane and Ill double check one edge for square. I now have a reference face and edge and can continue on with dimensioning the panel. Ill use my panel gauge and scribe the finished width around the perimeter; because this was pre-dimensioned wood and I took my time with the glue-up, Im happy to say the piece is almost square with just a few light passes along one end. With that, I now have a panel with two long edges, completely parallel and square with one finished face.
















Ill check the thickness throughout the panel to see if it needs any dressing and working from the bottom, Ill plane the stock to final thickness. Not much to remove so this process is pretty straight forward. Four sided stock with two ends that still need to be addressed- thats where Ill go from here.

Planing End Grain

I get asked alot how I deal with the long end grain on panels. I think some woodworkers are intimidated when it comes to this area so Ill show you the steps I use.
So first things first Ill scribe a deep, crisp line around the perimeter with a knife working off a reliable framing square. The amount of wood Im removing is very minimal, no more than 1/8". Again, the time I took to carefully glue up the panel makes these later steps so much easier.

With my line scribed Ill place the panel vertically in my face vise and block up the bottom off of the shop floor. From there Ill clamp the left side of the panel in the vise and hold the right side with a surface clamp installed in one of the 3/4" holes I have across my work bench apron. My bench didnt come like this but its a feature I could never live without. Before I fully tighten the vise and clamp I like to place a small level across the top of the piece.






















Also, because were dealing with end grain and I dont want to blow out the face grain on the far edge of the panel,(spelching) Ill clamp a piece of scrap wood, thicknessed the same as the work piece and tighten everything down to get started.

Im using my bevel-up jointer again, set to take a fine shaving and carefully work my way down. Im taking light passes, always watching for those first shiny edges starting to appear. Its hard to put into words but youll know it when you get there. Being careful not to over-shoot, I work my way down so I can see my scribe line still wrapping the entire perimeter. With that tiny strip left glistening, I know the edge is square. (but Ill still double check it!) Now I can safetly measure up off of this edge and follow the same procedure for the sixth and final side.















So there you have it- a work bench surface, square on all six sides. It may seem like a lot of steps but the above process probably didnt take much longer than it just took me to write this post. Im ready to begin the bread board ends and assemble my pieces for the apron. That will be next time.
Cheers!